Northern Ireland Adventures: Ulster Folk and Transport Museum

Northern Irish countryside is beautiful. 

It's been a while but I'm back with a new instalment to my Northern Ireland Adventures series.

Me in what was a dressmakers house from the early 20th century.

It was back in mid August that Jonathan woke me one Sunday morning to tell me we were going to the Folk and Transport museum for the afternoon. It's been on my list of places to visit as we pass it regularly travelling between Bangor and Belfast so I was pretty excited! The museum is in two parts and to get to the other you have to cross a bridge to the other side. 

Victorian Pharmacy.

We decided to start with the folk part of the museum and we had the chance to look around their buildings, all from around Northern Ireland and depicting a range of periods from the late 18th century until the early 20th century. You start with a urban setting with several buildings from Ballycultra including a school, bank and shops. 

Ballycultra residential street.

As it was a Sunday it was quiet and not all the demonstrations were open which was a shame but I still enjoyed walking around these buildings taking in the musky smell of old wood and the places were practically tingling with history. As a huge history buff being able to walk into places like this, places that actually hold so much history literally takes my breath away. I feel privileged to generally live in a society that treasures its heritage. 

Me exploring an Orange Order hall.

Moving on from the urban area we explored the 60 acres which hold rural buildings including farmhouses, a blacksmith, an Orange Order hall and watermills. Walking along the dirt paths really helped with the atmosphere of the place as well as the various farm animals - including a HUGE bull we nicknamed Thor!

THOR!

 We also got to meet some horses, donkeys, chickens and a sow with her newborn piglets! Being a big animal lover this really enhanced the atmosphere for me as you were able to go right up to the animals to say hi. It was also great for children, who may never meet animals like this in their day to day life. 

Making friends with the local horses. 

It was a bit of a trek but it being an overcast day meant we didn't get too hot and I managed the walk with my walking problems. I liked how everything was spread out so you could try and get a feel for the isolation these villages would have been in apart from trips to market towns. 

A widows single roomed cottage which she lived in so her son's family could have the farmhouse.

Most of the buildings were either working buildings like farms or watermills or were small lodgings that normal families would occupy. This really is a museum that celebrates the normal person. 

George?

Once we made it back to the car we crossed over to the transport museum. This museum is in two parts with a short walk between each building. The first building we entered included the steam train collection. Ireland, like the rest of the UK were able to access the railway transport system very early in its development. Although routes were smaller than those on Britain they were vital in the development of Ireland's economy and trade position. Goods and people could travel the country with ease and speed opening up a new world to the everyday person. I enjoyed being able to climb aboard some of the trains and carriages as well as all the old posters and train time logs. 

Stowaway!

We moved from the trains upstairs to enjoy their Titanic exhibition. Before the opening of the Titanic Museum last year in Belfast this used to be the only place to see artefacts and glean information about the doomed ship which was built in the Belfast shipyards. Despite going in thinking I knew alot about the ship I learned several new things and we enjoyed the interactive rivet game (Jonathan beat me!). The exhibition was on the small size, just one room, and it's made me more excited to eventually visit the Titanic Museum. It really is one of those events in history that's able to grasp your imagination full force. Downstairs held the museums collection of cars, including a DeLoren and an authentic 1960's bright orange Beetle. 

Action shot of Jonathan playing the rivet game!

Moving to the second part of the Transport Museum revealed the aviation history, this part of the museum felt a little neglected and lacked the detail of the previous building. I enjoyed seeing the various horse drawn carriages and cabs but there was little in this museum to really grab anyones attention in my opinion. Luckily it was almost closing so it was a good thing we didn't stay too long there. This, for me, was the only downfall for the museum and some serious thought and vision needs to be applied to that part, of course though I appreciate money for museums is a huge issue and funding changes requires alot of donations and government funding. However, it's something I can look forward to seeing in the future. 

Exploring the carriages.

I'm really looking forward to our next adventure, not sure where we'll be exploring next but it's sure to be fun!

Northern Ireland Adventures : Mount Stewart House

Hey, sorry for the lack of posts been busy back in Northern Ireland with Jonathan having more adventures. One of the places we visited was the National Trust run Mount Stewart House and Gardens just outside Newtownards. 

Hidden behind the tree line as you drive alongside Strangford Loch is the beautiful 18th century house and gardens owned by the Vane-Tempest-Stewart family, Marquesses of Londonderry. The house is now run by the National Trust for six months of the year and is still occupied by the family for the other six. The family were important in past politics between Great Britain and Ireland which are reflected in the vast collection inside the house. 

The exterior of the house, wish I could transport myself back to it's creation and see the everyday runnings of the property.  

The History

Mount Stewart, originally called Mount Pleasant,  was formed by the Stewart family in 1816. The estate itself was bought with money from the late Alexander Stewart (1699-1781) which came from the sales of textiles. Alexander's son, Robert Stewart, became the first Marquess of Londonderry and after his death in 1821 the property was left to his son, Robert Castlereagh, who became Britain's Foreign Secretary. The next owner of the house, Lord Castlereagh's half-brother Charles. Charles married twice and it was his second marriage to Lady Frances Ann Vane-Tempest that was vital to the families finances. She was a wealthy heiress and this promoted the refurbishment and enlargement of the newly renamed Mount Stewart. Controversially, £150,000 was spent on this refurbishment and yet only £30 was given by the family for famine relief during the Great Famine. 

The next 3 Marquess's of Londonderry did not live in the house and during the next several decades the house was neglected and came close to destroying the house.When the 7th Marquess, Charles, a Unionist, and his wife, Edith Chaplin came to inherit the house they bought with them a new lease of life. Edith's ancestral home was Dunrobin Castle in Scotland and this is where inspiration for the gardens came from. She is the one who redesigned and redecorated much of the interior that can be seen today. 

In 1957 the National Trust took over the gardens and in 1977 the Lady Mairi Bury, daughter of the 7th Marquess, gave the house and most the contents to the Trust. Lady Bury died in 2009 and was the last member to live in the house. The present estate is 98 acres and is fully run by the National Trust who are currently doing conservation and restoration work within the house. 

The beautiful lake which forms most of the grounds, one day I want to try and visit during the Autumn because those trees are going to be stunning!

Now: 

We visited on a Sunday, which seems a great day to visit as the Wildlife Hut was also open and we got to learn more about the local wildlife who live around Stangford Loch and the Mount Stewart property. The best part was a pair of binoculars that were set up to spy on a group of fur seals resting in the middle of the rocks. I've never seen them in the wild before so this was a real treat for the animal lover in me. It was busy, but not crowded and we easily got on the house tour without booking. Sadly half the house is currently closed as it's all being refurbished and renovated but it was still a treat getting a glimpse into the families life. The study was a dream come true with all the beautiful hardback books and open fireplace and just so beautiful!

The gardens are equally beautiful, walking around the grounds takes less than an hour and I suggest comfortable shoes to walk in as the path is rural. The lake is stunning and even with several families around it was so quiet. I would have loved to have sat under a tree with one of my books and just relaxed. This is also one of the best places to spot the endangered red squirrel! We weren't lucky enough to glimpse any but I'm glad that they have little haven's like this and I know the National Trust will work hard at keeping their population stable. Walking around the more structured gardens for some reason made me feel like Mary Lennox, star of Frances Hodgson Burnett's 'The Secret Garden'. I felt like each garden was leading into a new special place and I could imagine members of the family walking through past the beautiful flowers during the summer. Sadly, the Spanish garden was closed as it's being used as part of the set for the upcoming Dracula film but we're planning to visit again in a few years time to see the house so I'm sure we'll be able to enjoy it then. 

Jonathan caught in one of the stunning gardens. 

We had a beautiful afternoon and as usual the National Trust run a beautiful property to a high standard for all to enjoy. I really need to get myself National Trust membership soon though as paying £8 each place can get a little exhausting on the wallet!

Northern Ireland Advenutures: Dunluce Castle

Dunluce Castle, a hidden Northern Irish gem.

Driving along the Northern Irish north coast between Portrush and Portballintrae it's hard to not notice the looming ruins of a castle seeming to rise from the sea. Hanging on from the basalt cliff face it's although the castle is a part natural part human made structure. This is Dunluce Castle.

The History: 

View to the East when standing in the castle. I stood here watching the birdlife for several minutes totally absorbed in the atmosphere of the place.

In the 13th century when Richard Og de Burgh, the second Earl of the kingdom of Ulster, built the formidable structure rising up from the cliffs. However there is no documented ownership of the property until 1513 when the McQuillan family built two large drum towers (30ft diameter). The McQuillans had used Dunluce to build a stronghold while they were Lords of the local territory; known as 'the Route'. The McQuillans were the holders of Dunluce and 'The Route' until the mid-late 16th century when they were displaced by the MacDonalds.

View out one of the windows towards Portrush.

On the death of James MacDonald the Antrim Glens and the Route were taken by a younger brother, Sorley Boy MacDonnell. Sorley Boy improved the castle into a more traditional Scottish style and swore allegiance to Queen Elizabeth I. The Route was important to the British Crown as it's part of the main trading routes between Scotland and Ireland, it also secured British rule with the MacDonnell's swearing their allegiance. Due to Sorley Boy's decisions his son Randal was made the 1st Earl of Antrim by King James I. 

Jonathan looking taller than the castle!

More improvements and changes were made to the castle during this time. when the Girona, a galleass from the Spanish Armada was wrecked nearby the cannon from the ship was installed into one of the gatehouses and the rest of the cargo sold to make money for more restoration work. During the 17th century part of the kitchen collapsed into the sea due to the castle being built on the cliff edge. After this the castle was abandoned over time. with the impoverishment of the MacDonnell's during the Battle of the Boyne in 1690 the castle has deteriorated and parts taken for other buildings nearby. 

Dunluce Town: 

When Randal MacDonnell was in charge of Dunluce he began working on a town around the castle's grounds. Started around 1608 the town was eventually destroyed in 1641 during the Irish Uprising. In 2011 a major archaeological project has begun to find significant remains of the lost town. Finding's include the discovery of a complex street network built on a revolutionary grid system and indoor toilets in homes. To this date it's believed that 95% of the town is still to be discovered. 

Yay, tourist adventures!

Now: 

Visiting now brings you to a small vistior centre with a modest visitor fee. Due to the small amount of funding and relience of volunteers the centre is small but well informed. The walls include a detailed history of the castle and an interactive video playing every few minutes gives a more visual history. Also provided to a visitor is audio guide which you can take with you as you explore the ruins. Dunluce was a small stronghold and access is by walking over a bridge. 

Access bridge, not for the faint hearted! I had a little panic as I'm scared of heights. ^^;

The actual castle has little in the way of information bar the audio guide, which I found informative and gave you the castle from the perspective of one of the past owners, workers or visitors. Included is a separate guide for children. The views from the castle are stunning, however disabled people will probably have trouble with the steps and uneven flooring. Luckily I visited on a quiet Friday afternoon and my boyfriend and I were some of the only visitors which made the experience more enjoyable for us, as we dislike crowds. I felt I was able to absorb the atmosphere more acutely and I will be following for more information of the archaeological finds from the lost town of Dunluce in the future. From someone who has studied heritage I was impressed with the castle, I understood they are working on a very limited budget and what they have achieved they should be pleased with, though there's always room for improvements! I'd like to see more to enchant children as I could imagine most typical children under 10 getting very bored very fast. But overall a very enjoyable experience of somewhere I knew nothing about. One of Northern Ireland's little gems.  

I honestly think ruins and anything that is touched by the passage of time are some of my favourite places. 

 -

This is the first part of an ongoing series logging my adventures in Northern Ireland, where my boyfriend, Jonathan, lives. I'll put snippets of where we visit and share my thoughts of the place along with any local history or culture.